Belindabilly Recommends: Spoonflower Fabrics

This week on Belindabilly Recommends, we're giving a shout out to our favorite fabric printers, Spoonflower Fabrics.

Spoonflower is a local (Durham, NC) custom printing company that helps designers (anyone who uploads an image) create their own fabrics (their is quite a selection, including eco-friendly choices), as well as wallpaper and wall decals. They also have a wonderful community and marketplace, holding weekly design contests to which anyone can submit and vote. 

Winning fabric of Spoonflower's recent "80's Embroidery Pattern" themed contest. 

The marketplace is an especially wonderful feature, because as a crafter, quilter, or hobby sewer, you can find almost any fabric your heart desires, and purchase it from an independent designer on high quality fabric of your choice. Plus, the cut-and-sew ideas that designers come up with can be pretty amazing and exciting.

"Zip-Up Zombie" by happysewlucky - click to see sewn up pics

The marketplace also offers fabric designers (of all backgrounds and experience levels) a chance to showcase their own designs in curated collections in their own shop, as well as create private designs for their own use. Quilters may enjoy this collection aspect quite a bit, because you can create and/or purchase fabrics that use the same color scheme, have the same designer hand, and often share a central theme. Belindabilly uses Spoonflower printing alongside screen-printing for many of our collections, including our Signature line because it gives us complete control over the textiles and the final look of the garments. We've even recently opened our own shop for the fun fabrics that we create outside of our fashion collections (yes, we design in our free time!), so you can make your own creations with Belindabilly fabrics.

All in all, Spoonflower is a great company that Belindabilly loves and want to recommend to you! Check them out at their new headquarters during their open house on November 3!

DIY Upcycling: Plain A-line Skirt to Sexy Pencil Skirt

So, believe it or not, I've had this a-line skirt hanging out in my closet since I made it one weekend in high school. It was cute, but not that flattering and I didn't bother to put in a closure, so I had to put it on over my head. I hadn't worn it in at least a year because of all of these reasons, and I decided it was either time to make it cute enough to wear, or throw it out. So, here's my tutorial on A-line to Pencil. (Sorry for the fuzzy photos - my camera is broken so I'm using my smart phone!)

Before

After

Sewing Level: Intermediate to Advanced

Time: 1 - 2 hours depending on complexity of your own skirt and how fast you sew.

Supplies and Materials:

A-line skirt

Cover-alls or similar large metal zipper (something you like the look of)

Sewing machine and standard notions

Scissors

Ruler

Fabric for waistband (if your skirt doesn't have one, or if you want to add some pop color)

Button for the waistband (again, if your skirt doesn't have one)

Seam ripper (optional)

Chalk pencil (optional)

Hip curve (optional)

Here is the skirt laid out on the table. Notice that the ribbons follow the a-line angle of the skirt. Your skirt may have similar details, whether it is the pattern on the fabric, or just some seaming. This won't look good if we just sew up the sides, so we need to bring these lines to be parallel. If you have a waistband on your skirt, you will probably want to take it off with a seam ripper before starting.

So, measure and find the center between the lines (if you have a patterned fabric, just choose two lines equidistant from the center line), and pin the fabric, taking in darts so that the lines become parallel. If your skirt has seaming, your best bet is to open those seams and cut the fabric into rectangles and then sew them back together, making the seam lines parallel.

Sew your darts, ending at the waist line (in this photo I only sewed up to the hip line, but I later decided it did not look good to have pleats there - I would advise to just make darts up to the waist line). Turn the skirt inside out and press the darts over their respective center lines.

Now to the back. Fold your skirt in half so that you can find your center line in back. If you have a zipper or button here already, it will make it easier.  Cut open the skirt all the way from the hemline to the waist line. If you have a seam up the back already, just take out the seam with a seam ripper.

Sew the first side of your zipper to one side of the skirt. Notice that there are two lines of stitches. The first, closer to the zipper, secures the zipper to the skirt. The second is sewn on the right side of the skirt and secures the edge of the zipper tape so that it does not pull away from the skirt. You'll also want to make sure that the closed end of the zipper is at the bottom and the end that opens is at the top. If your zipper is longer than your skirt, which mine was, leave the excess at the top. You'll cut it off before you put on the waistband, which will secure it.

Fold your zipper tape over the edge of your hem and secure with a few stitches.

Now try on your skir and see how it's going. Make sure you like the front so far. Then put it on inside out and, keeping the zipper at your center back, pull the excess fabric to the side of your legs. Your original side seam will be closer to the front, so don't try to pull equally on either side of it. Just pull it to what is now the natural side seam. Don't take in too much fabric at this point that it creates stress lines; we will take in the rest of the excess with two more darts in the back. Put a pin at the hem and at your hip, and one or two in between.

Take off the skirt and mark the pins with some chalk. Take out the pins and lay the skirt out flat so that there is equal excess on both side seams. You'll notice that pin marks on the front and back of the skirt don't exactly align. Transfer the front pin marks to the back so that you can compare the differences.

Using a hip curve if you have one, draw a line that comes from the original side seam at the waist line to the hemline, going between your two sets of pin marks as best you can. Make sure that your original side seam is always included in the excess (the part you'll eventually cut off), if not, you will end up with two side seams in some parts. Measure and make the same line on the other side seam. Sew up both sides and try on the skirt again.

At this point, the skirt should fit pretty well, but just have some excess around the back of your legs (under your buttocks). Try on the skirt and pin the excess between the side seam and the zipper in the back (just mark one side) with one pin at the hemline and one part just below the widest part of your buttocks. Take the skirt off and mark an s-curve from the pin at the hemline to the upper pin, and up until the line hits the edge of the fold (to make a closed dart). Measure your curve from the zipper, and then from your side seam and mark those measurements on the other side. Pin and sew. 

Now, try it on. It should look great on you, because it's actually made for your body! If there is anything that doesn't look right, don't be afraid to make some changes. When you are satisfied, cut off the excess fabric that you've sewn up and press the seams and darts. Sew on the waistband, and button, then, bask in the glory of your accomplishment.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

Belindabilly Recommends: Tourtoise Tee

I've decided to start a new series--branching off of my attempted series of posts about companies Belindabilly works with for our collections--of posts about sustainable, responsible, and small businesses that we personally patronize and trust, and would like to recommend to you, called "Belindabilly Recommends".

I'm excited to begin this series by recommending to you a brand new creative company called Tourtoise Tee. Founded by a good friend and fellow alumni of SAIC, Joey Jacks, Tourtoise Tee brings together independent artists/designers and unsigned or local bands to collaborate and create limited edition t-shirts, each available for only one week. 

Tourtoise Tee's First Design by Ben Bertin for Ian

What we love about the idea, other than the explosion of creativity, is that everyone benefits! Customers and fans get awesome small-edition t-shirts to brag about to their friends, artists get exposure (and a percentage of the profits), and the bands get t-shirts to sell at their merch tables.

I do have to be honest here, too, and tell you that this week's limited edition t-shirt (available only until friday) was designed by Belindabilly. We're so excited and honored to be included in the first steps of this awesome and soon-to-be-wildly-popular website that we just couldn't wait to do the write-up later! So, check them out today and every week! (By the way, if you're a band or artist that wants to participate, you can sign up by downloading the contract and sending it in - they're always looking for new collaborators.)


Disclaimer: Our recommendations come from our personal experiences and are unsolicited; please do not contact us to be featured. Companies or brands featured in our posts do not necessarily endorse the blog or Belindabilly, and are, unless otherwise noted, unaffiliated with the Belindabilly brand or employees.

DIY Upcycling: 15 minute Skirt-to-Dress

Recently, my mom decided to go through her closet and take out all the stuff she never wears, and give it away (as she does once or twice a year). Before taking it to GCF, she always gives me a chance to go through, and this time was quite a harvest! A few items were adorable as they were, but I also saw some things that had a lot of potential for upcycling, like this skirt:

It has an adorable print, it's made of 100% linen, and it's lined in soft cotton, but it's a bit.. matronly. But, I knew there was life in it yet! And so, here is my quick tutorial on turning a long a-line skirt into a cute strapless dress.

One thing I should mention before we start, is that you need to make sure that it will actually fit above your bust when all zipped up. If it fits as a skirt a little below the waist, then most likely it will fit you up top too. Another handy thing, is if the skirt has a side zipper, it will look better and be easier to get on and off as a dress (than if it has a back zipper).

So, the first step is to try it on inside out and mark the ends of darts under your bustline

and on the princess line on your back.

It is up to you if you want to stop the darts at the empire waist (like I did) or bring them all the way down to your natural waist. Either way, we'll only be sewing the top point of the dart down to the fullest point where we're taking it in. This way, they will look more like pleats and add fullness to the skirt of the dress.

After you've pinned the darts, sew them up and try it on again. If you need to bring it in more, than do so. Once you've got a good fit, you're done!

You can wear it as is or with a belt or ribbon! Super cute and easy!

Remaking your favorite cashmere sweater

This may come as a shock, but I can't afford to make all of my own clothes (it's mostly the time, but new fabric costs a lot too). Yet, I also have to put my own spin on things here and there. I've decided to start documenting my upcycling-escapades on this blog, starting with my favorite cashmere sweater.

So, you know that adorable cashmere sweater you have that fits you perfectly and makes you look hot and sweet at the same time while also somehow being miraculously comfortable? Ok, so you know when your wonderful husband is trying to help you out on a super busy day and does your laundry for you...and that adorable sweater goes in the dryer. When it comes out and it's the perfect fit for your mini-me, you may feel like throwing it out, or the husband - but don't throw either out! First, your husband was actually being very sweet, and second, your sweater could still get even sweeter...

Here is my cute cashmere sweater after it came out of the dryer. You can't tell from the photo, but it's now a child's size sweater. It shrank in all directions, so it's tight around the waist and bust and it only comes down to my belly button.

So, what should you do with a sweater that's too small? Make a cropped cardigan! All you need is a pair of scissors, a sewing machine with a zigzag stitch or a serger, some matching thread, and some complementary trim. Optionally, add buttons, hook and eye tape, or loops and knots for closures. Just cut up the center and use the trim to add to the circumference (so you can fit into it) and cut the sleeves off (if you want). Add the trim with a zig zag foot and add your closures and you're done! I used a cream double-layered lace and cream satin blanket tape for my trim, and some small white hooks and eyes to hide the closure.

So? Even cuter right? The thing that took the longest was hand-sewing the hooks and eyes, but if you did something faster on a machine, like buttonholes, this will probably take an hour max. So, the moral of the story is you can always save a cashmere sweater!

How to be a Professional Model - tips from a designer

I just got back from Columbia Style Week (or at least I feel like I just got back, but it was actually a week ago) and it was awesome! For first timers, they really knew how to put a show together, and, minus a few hiccups, I felt really taken care of as a designer. My only complaints were that they seemed more worried about quantity over quality when it came to the clothing - but it may have been that they had trouble attracting regional talent because of their newness - and the lack of communication with models - but that's nothing new.

This is something I've noticed every time I do a show. There are models who are very professional and organized, and then there is the other 90%. This is not to say that these other women can't become professional, or that they are not trying, but many models just don't know what a designer needs from them or what they need to get from the designer. So that's what I'm going to tell you. I'm not a model and I know it is a difficult business, so I'm not trying to make an all-inclusive guide to professional modeling (this is just a blog post anyway), but I can give you tips from a designer's perspective.

1. KNOW YOUR MEASUREMENTS. This is very important. If you loose weight, or you start lifting, you'll need to update your measurements. Buy a measuring tape; they are very inexpensive. Take your measurements and have them on hand. When you contact a designer that you want to work with, send your measurements along with your photos. If you have an online portfolio (i.e. modelmayhem), put your measurements on your profile page. Designers will choose you based on measurements above your "look" because as cool or pretty or interesting as you may be, we need you to fit in the clothing.

2. COMMUNICATE! I can't stress this enough. If you correspond via email, check it everyday. If you correspond via ModelMayham, check it everyday. If you give out your phone number, answer your phone. Especially if you have already been booked for a show/photoshoot, you need to remain in touch. I can't tell you how many times I have wanted to drop a model because I can't get ahold of her when it's important. On a related note, don't plan to do anything else on the day of a fashion show; you may not be needed until the afternoon, but you need to be available in case something comes up. Plus, you don't want to loose track of time and be replaced by a back up model because you are late.

3. Know the designer's work. At least look at their website once. This is especially important if you are going to a casting call. Get an idea of the mood of the collection. If you like the work, tell the designer. You'll do better on the runway or in a photo shoot if you enjoy wearing their clothing.

4. Have lots of shoes. Everyone can get behind this, right? You should have a pair of black pumps and a pair of nude pumps. On top of that you can add black, white, and nude sandals, low heels, stilettos that you can walk in, and I would recommend one super cool pair of brightly colored or patterned heels. 

5. Ask questions. Sometimes the designer is very busy and forgets to give you what you need, so you'll have to ask. Here are some suggestions: How should I walk (peppy, slow, moody, sexy...)? What shoes should I wear (you can let them know what you have)? Should I do my nails? Do you need models for a related photoshoot? What kind of event is this (buyers and press, nightclub party etc)? Who will be photographing/videographing the event and how can I get ahold of them?

6. Practice different walks and moods. Sometimes the collection is light an airy and you need a floating walk. Sometimes it is dark and moody and you need a tough walk. Sometimes you need sexy or fun or funny. Take an acting class if you have time. It will help you find different characters you can use and it will help you learn to control your expression.

7. This is for underage models - don't let your parents do the talking for you. For safety, you should always make sure your parents know your bookings and do bring them to your fittings and meetings, but tell them to keep their mouth closed (but maybe be nicer than that). If a designer emails you and gets a response from a parent, it is frustrating, and it makes you seem less responsible. Remember, this is your job and your future career and you want to be in charge of it. The designer chose to work with you, not your mom.

8. Look to the designer for the level or professionalism. I'm very relaxed and like to have a good time, but we are doing business, not hanging out. It's always important to be on time and courteous.

That's it. If you have something to add, please feel free to comment.

Have a good weekend!
Belinda

Hello Again!

It's been a while since I have updated this blog, and in about a week, you'll be able to see why...on the runway at DC Fashion Week! My fall 2012 collection, Night Flight of Dread and Delight is not only my first full collection - with 12 looks consisting of 21 garments - but it is also my first foray into fashion week, and I can tell you, I'm excited! But I am also very proud - not in the egotistical sense, but in the feeling of accomplishment. I am also proud to say that 100% of the collection is eco-friendly, and I am proud to find so many companies and manufacturers combining organic and earth friendly materials with great design and sustainable practices. That is why I have decided to update this blog now - to showcase these materials and their creators.

I will begin, as interesting stories often do, at the end. And, in sewing, that is usually the buttons.

I found these awesome buttons from WoodButtons.com, which were perfect for this collection as I wanted something that looked like an owl eye. At first I thought I would just have to use teddy bear eyes, but those are either plastic (fossil fuels) or glass (which takes a lot of energy), not to mention it would ship from half way around the world! So, enter Wood Buttons to save the day. I'll let them explain the rest:

Our wood and corozo are sourced from 100% renewable resources. For every two trees we cut, we plant three! We care about the planet and so should you. 

and

You're buying from an authentic American company; not a trade company with a factory overseas. We manufacture everything right here in Brooklyn, USA.

That last part is just as important. What's the point of buying organic or renewable materials, if they're being manufactured by wage slaves and being shipped hundreds of miles, using fossil fuels? Just something to think about when using bamboo fabrics... but that's a topic for another post.

For now, check out this great company and all the interesting designs they have!

 

Beauties and their Beasts

As promised, I am posting a selection of photos from a recent photo shoot of the fall collection, La Belle and Le Bete, inspired by early hollywood monster movies such as the Creature from the Black Lagoon. The shoot was amazing, because I had an amazing team - Jed Gammon, photographer, IC Beauty Hair and Makeup, and the lovely Charlotte - can you believe this is her first professional photo shoot?

La Belle - linen blend keyhole top and flannel and cotton skirt

 and le Bete - printed organic t-shirt, suspenders, and flannel slacks

  The other Beauty - satin v-neck top with flannel and cotton skirt.

 and her beast - linen blend top with cotton trousers

 This is actually a dress from the last spring/summer collection, but I wanted to get more shots of it.

 All photos Copyright Jed Gammon 2011

This week and this week only!

This coming Sunday, Oct 23, Belindabilly will be featured along with other designers in the Go Red Fashion Show benefiting the American Heart Association. The show is being held in conjunction with a venue tour in Wake Forest, NC (more info and tickets). 


This week is also the beginning of a new promotion at Belindabilly - our Item of the Week. Every week, one item or group of items will be featured and will be 25% off for the entire week. There is a catch though; the Item of the Week will not be advertised on the website. Only the insiders on Facebook and Twitter will hear about it, so make sure you're in on the secret!


Also this week I'll be publishing photos from a recent photo shoot with Jed Gammon Photography on the blog (preview on our FB), so stay tuned!

Her Name is Yoshimi

Do you ever feel like you are really busy, but when someone asks what you've been up to, you can't come up with anything, or if you do, you feel silly for saying you're so busy?


I have been working on getting ready for a photoshoot for a collection that I wanted to photograph last year. I'm glad I get to meet some other fashion-minded people in the raleigh area--I've got a great photographer and a promising makeup artist. Plus I'm trying to figure out how to use photo-emulsion screen printing without a dark room or an exposure table. I'll probably just end up using my closet as my dark room and building my own light table. That just takes a while and I feel like Veruca Salt--I want it now!


On top of that I've been sketching for my fall 2012 collection and it takes up 50% of my brain at any given moment. I am happy with it so far though, and happy to see how easy it is getting to find cool organic fabrics. Now if we can just get some eco-friendly zippers! 


I'm doing all of this because I've decided to go to fashion weeks in the Southeast in March and April. Why wait and longer? I'll be putting up a Kickstarter project in October to fund the collection, and I'm applying to the Charleston Fashion Week Emerging Designer Competition (cross your fingers for me!). I'll also be heading to Charlotte, NC and Jacksonville, FL.

On another note, I saw the Flaming Lips at Raleigh's Hopscotch Festival last weekend. I think the best word to describe it is trippy--and fun! I'd like to be able to throw a party like that!

Yea, there is a person in there.

Irene Dover

It's quite the rainy day so I figured it was time for another blog post! I was thinking about naming my next dress Irene (after the hurricane currently hanging over us), but she really isn't very impressive after all.

Speaking of new clothing, the next Printed collection will be debuting in only 5 days! Of course, that means the dairy cow t-shirts will only be around for 4 more days... For September's Printed Collection (which will be available through October 31), we worked with Wilmington, NC artist, Kevin Thomas Ward, whose silly yet creepy drawings bring a lot of smiles (and confused looks) to North Carolina's Cape Fear. Ward's first book about Carolina's resident specters came out this summer, and we are excited to have an exclusive collection of spooktacular drawings by Ward just for Belindabilly! Here's a little preview for you:

Don't be scared! It's not real! Just real cool!